My first days in Kathmandu: bewildering traffic, unexpected kindness and a SIM card with an unusually generous family plan.
![]() |
| A rainforest in the middle of Doha Airport. Not your average stopover. |
Well, here I am. Nepal!
After 14 hours of travelling, including a rather surreal stopover at Doha Airport with its very own 6,000 m² indoor tropical forest, I finally landed in Kathmandu.
Dinesh, one of the founders of Volunteers Initiative Nepal (VIN), picked me up and introduced me to what would be my home for the next four weeks.
![]() |
| The view from my room at the VIN Centre. A surprisingly green corner of Kathmandu. |
My first impressions? Traffic that appears to operate without any recognisable rules, yet somehow keeps moving. Street dogs that seem to have mastered the art of inner peace. And people who have already managed to surprise me more than anything else.
When I asked Dinesh if I had to worry about being mugged or robbed in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, he replied:
“No, not really. That’s not in our nature.”
What a statement! And honestly, it feels very safe walking through the streets of Thamel, day and night. The people keep surprising me with their authentic friendliness and genuine curiosity.
![]() |
| Kathmandu’s streets: a little bit of everything, all at once. |
![]() |
| The evening traffic has its own ideas about right of way. |
On my first day, I was wandering through Kathmandu when a shopkeeper invited me to look at his merchandise. I politely declined. Instead of trying harder to sell me something, he asked whether he could help me with anything else.
“Actually, I’m looking for a cafĂ©.”
He started giving directions, quickly realised how hopeless that was in Kathmandu’s maze of little streets, left his shop without locking up and simply walked me there himself. Then he wished me a lovely stay in Nepal and went back to work.
No sales pitch. No expectations. Just kindness.
And it happened again!
Another shopkeeper asked whether I wanted to buy something. When I declined, he asked what I was looking for instead.
“A SIM card.”
He called a friend, then personally escorted me about seven streets away to a tiny shop selling cashmere shawls and SIM cards. The owner was sharing apples and mandarins with a friend, and naturally, we were invited to join them.
Unfortunately, I had forgotten my passport, so I promised to return the next day.
Now, normally I might have used that as a convenient excuse to disappear. Too many experiences elsewhere have taught me to be suspicious of strangers being unusually helpful. Surely there must be a catch somewhere?
But this time, something felt different.
I’m slowly learning that not everything has to be tested to be the cheapest deal or the most efficient solution. Sometimes it simply has to feel right.
So I returned the following day, just as promised.
The shopkeeper was so delighted that I, as a foreigner, had kept my word that he immediately declared me his sister.
![]() |
| A neighbourhood shop after dark. |
![]() |
| Fresh fish, fresh conversations. |
![]() |
| These street dogs have mastered the art of doing absolutely nothing. |
![]() |
My new brother. I went out for a SIM card and came back with family. |
Oh, and a SIM card.
Not bad!










